Drip irrigation for Utah backyards

water · intermediate · ~6 min read

Hose-and-spray-nozzle waters the leaves and walks away after 5 minutes. Drip waters the roots, slowly, where the plant actually drinks. In Utah's 8% summer humidity, drip cuts water use by 30–50% compared to overhead sprinklers — and dramatically reduces fungal disease.

The minimum kit

A pressure regulator (30 psi for drip), a backflow preventer, a filter, and a hose-thread Y-adapter. Costs about $30. Without a pressure regulator, household pressure (50–80 psi) blows emitters off the line.

For a 4×8 raised bed

One run of 1/2" drip line down the long axis with built-in emitters every 12 inches puts roughly 0.5 gallons per linear foot per hour. 30 minutes 3× a week in summer = ~2 gallons per square foot per week.

For fruit trees

Two emitters per tree at 1 gph, placed about 18 inches from the trunk on opposite sides. Run 1 hour twice a week the first year, then push to deeper, less-frequent watering as the tree establishes.

Winter prep

Drip line freezes if water sits in it. After the last fall watering, blow the line out with a small compressor or unscrew the end caps and let it drain.

The minimum kit

For a 4×8 raised bed

For fruit trees

Winter prep

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